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Вязание и многое другое
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Представьте себе чудо, когда простые клубки пряжи, стежок за стежком, превращаются в красивые, идеально сидящие свитера или ценные единственные в своем роде подарки. Почувствуйте удовлетворение от завершения последнего стежка и осознания того, что вы сделали свое собственное творение, что-то уникальное для вас.
Присоединяйтесь к тысячам женщин и мужчин — подросткам, детям, молодым матерям, пожилым людям, знаменитостям — которые открывают для себя страсть к вязанию. Все, что нужно для начала, — это клубок пряжи, пара вязальных спиц и эта полезная статья, в которой вы найдете советы по покупке пряжи и спиц, инструкции по основным схемам вязания и многое другое.
Немного потренировавшись, вы скоро будете вязать роскошные пледы, очаровательную детскую одежду и потрясающие аксессуары. Без сомнения, вы будете планировать свой следующий проект еще до того, как первый будет завершен!
Приступайте к вязанию с помощью следующих страниц:
Вязальные спицыУзнайте о широком ассортименте вязальных спиц и о том, как выбрать правильный набор для вашего следующего проекта.
Как
выбрать трикотажную пряжу Прежде чем выбрать трикотажную пряжу, ознакомьтесь с советами на этой странице, чтобы убедиться, что вы нашли правильный вес и волокно пряжи.
Как набирать петли
Найдите метод набора петель, который подходит вам и вашему проекту, в этом информативном разделе.
Обучение лицевой вязке Овладейте
техникой создания идеальной лицевой петли каждый раз с помощью шагов и иллюстраций на этой странице.
Изучение изнаночной вязки
Узнайте все об изнаночной вязке — еще одной важной петле для вязания узоров — в этом полезном разделе.
Как закрывать петли
Начните завершать процесс вязания, научившись закрывать петли на этой странице.
Схемы вязания
От лицевой глади до платочной вязки, петли, описанные в этом разделе, обязательно появятся в большинстве ваших проектов по вязанию.
Понимание
инструкций по вязанию Узнайте, как расшифровать инструкции по вязанию узоров в этом полезном разделе.
Сокращения для вязания
Найдите длинный список наиболее распространенных сокращений для вязания и их значений на этой странице.
Давайте начнем с изучения тонкостей вязания спицами на следующей странице.
Не то, что вы ищете? Попробуйте эти полезные статьи:
- Инструкции по вязанию
- Бесплатные узоры для вязания спицами
- Бесплатные узоры для вязания одежды
- Free Knitting Patterns for the Home
- Free Accessory Knitting Patterns
- Free and Easy Knitting Patterns
- Free Knitting Patterns
- Knitting Needles
- How to Select Knitting Yarn
- How to Cast On Stitches
- Learning the Knit Stitch
- Learning the Purl Stitch
- How to Bind Off Stitches
- Knitting Stitch Patterns
- Understanding Knitting Instructions
- Knitting Abbreviations
Knitting Needles
Knitting needles are available in a wide variety of materials: aluminum, plastic, and other fabricated substances, along with natural woods. You can make your own needles out of dowels sharpened on one end. Or you can buy rare antique, sterling silver, or gold-plated needles, or even needles with the ends adorned with precious gems. Whichever you choose, just know they all knit the same, and all can get lost in the cushions of the couch.
Novice knitters may prefer to use needles of bamboo or wood because the stitches are less likely to slide off. These materials help grip the stitches. With experience, you'll find a type or brand of knitting needle that becomes your favorite. To begin, it's a good idea to buy an inexpensive pair that appeals to you and start from there.
Needles come in a range of sizes, from a very tiny size 0 (you don't want to start with these!) all the way up to size 50 (you'll only use these in rare instances for specialty projects). Knitting patterns include a suggested needle size. You won't know the actual size you need to work the pattern until after you make your gauge swatch.
There are three styles of knitting needles: straight (single-point), circular, and double-point needles. The most common style is straight, single-point. These needles are sold in pairs and are available in both 10- and 14-inch lengths. They have a knob on the end opposite the point to prevent stitches from slipping off. The needle size is sometimes stamped on the knob or on the needle shank. Straight needles are best suited to working back and forth in rows to make a flat piece of knitting.
Clockwise from left: circular needles; straight, single-point needles; double-pointed needles. |
The third type is double-pointed needles. These short needles have an identical point on each end, and either end is used to knit. Double-pointed needles are usually sold in sets of 4 or 5 and are available in lengths from 6 to 8 inches. Shorter lengths are available for making socks or gloves. This type of needle is best used for knitting in the round or for making I-cords or other small, flat items made with few stitches.
In the next section, we'll discuss the variety of yarn available for knitting and how to choose one that will work best for your project.
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Needles and yarn will get you started, but as your knitting skills progress, you'll want to acquire the following:
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Не то, что вы ищете? Попробуйте эти полезные статьи:
- Инструкции по вязанию
- Бесплатные узоры для вязания спицами
- Бесплатные узоры для вязания одежды
- Бесплатные узоры для вязания дома
- Бесплатные схемы вязания аксессуаров
- Бесплатные и легкие узоры для вязания
- Бесплатные узоры для вязания
Как выбрать вязальную пряжу
Единственное, что веселее, чем закончить последний стежок проекта, — это выбрать пряжу, которую вы будете использовать для следующего. Существует огромный выбор пряжи и цветов, и выбор одной из них может стать самой сложной частью вашего проекта. Вооружитесь следующей информацией, и вы обязательно выберете пряжу, которая вам нравится и идеально подходит для вашего проекта.
Как только вы найдете понравившуюся выкройку, внимательно прочитайте список материалов. Он расскажет вам все, что вам нужно знать о пряже, которую вы будете использовать. Большинство шаблонов указывают точную марку и используемый цвет, что значительно упрощает процесс покупки. Обратитесь в местный магазин пряжи, чтобы узнать, продают ли они эту пряжу и каких цветов. Если они этого не сделают, они должны быть в состоянии предложить альтернативу. Или найдите пряжу в одном из многочисленных интернет-магазинов.
При замене пряжи всегда выбирайте пряжу из той же весовой категории, из аналогичного волокна и аналогичного размера . Как только вы узнаете эти три вещи, вы можете рассмотреть возможность замены пряжи другими марками.
Выкройка подскажет, какой вес пряжи использовать. Вес пряжи делится на несколько категорий. Основные пять: аппликатура, спорт, DK, камвольный и громоздкий. Пряжа для аппликатуры или ребенка очень тонкая. Его часто используют для изготовления носков, кружев и детской одежды. Пряжа спортивного веса тяжелее, чем пальчиковая, и ее можно использовать практически для всего, включая пледы, детские вещи, поделки и свитера.
Утяжелитель DK означает двойное вязание и толще спортивного утяжелителя. В первую очередь это европейская пряжа, хотя несколько американских компаний в настоящее время импортируют ее под собственным названием. Камвольная пряжа является наиболее часто используемой пряжей. Он используется для свитеров, пледов, подушек и многих других изделий. Он быстро вяжется и является хорошим весом для начинающих вязальщиц. Объемная или толстая пряжа используется для ковров, пальто и тяжелых свитеров. Он толстый и тяжелый и очень быстро работает на очень больших иглах.
Сверху вниз: аппликационная, или детская, весовая пряжа; пряжа спортивного веса; весовая пряжа ДК; камвольная весовая пряжа; объемная или толстая пряжа. |
Хлопчатобумажная пряжа очень популярна, потому что из нее получаются стильные и удобные изделия. Хлопок обычно маркируется как ручная стирка. Смеси — это любые мыслимые комбинации волокон, включая натуральные и синтетические. В то время как большинство вязальщиц предпочитают натуральные волокна, у синтетики есть свои преимущества. Они часто недороги, легко доступны, предлагают широкий выбор цветов и просты в уходе.
Выберите пряжу, подходящую для вашего рисунка и исходя из вашего личного вкуса. Хороший совет — купить один клубок или моток (далее — клубок) пряжи, которую вы хотите использовать, прежде чем начинать проект. Свяжите большой образец узора и постирайте или отдайте в химчистку так же, как вы будете использовать для своего готового проекта. Из этого эксперимента вы узнаете несколько вещей: какой у вас калибр, нравится ли вам работать с пряжей, садится или растягивается ли пряжа после очистки и, самое главное, растекается ли краска.
Следующий вопрос: «Сколько пряжи мне купить?» Эта информация находится в списке материалов для выкройки и на этикетке пряжи. Если вы покупаете марку, которую требует выкройка, просто проверьте, сколько мячей нужно для размера, который вы делаете.
При замене пряжи сначала определите, имеет ли новый клубок пряжи то же количество ярдов или метров, что и пряжа с узором. Посмотрите на этикетке пряжи, сколько ярдов или метров содержит клубок, и разделите это число на общий метраж, необходимый для определения того, сколько клубков вам нужно. Округлите это число до ближайшего шара, чтобы убедиться, что у вас достаточно пряжи.
Before purchasing, check the dye lot number on every ball of yarn you've selected. Yarn is dyed in huge lots, or batches. When distributed to retail stores, dye lots are often mixed together. You may not be able to see any difference when comparing two different dye lots in the store, but after completing a project, you'll realize just how "off" two balls of "Off-White" can be. The probability of buying or finding matching dye lots months later is unlikely. Check each dye lot number, and buy all the yarn you'll need before you start your project. You'll be very glad you did.
Now that you have your yarn and needles, you're ready to get started! Learn all about casting on stitches in the next section.
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It's likely you'll eventually want to add the following tools to your knitting bag.
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- Инструкции по вязанию
- Бесплатные узоры для вязания спицами
- Бесплатные узоры для вязания одежды
- Бесплатные узоры для вязания дома
- Бесплатные схемы вязания аксессуаров
- Бесплатные и легкие узоры для вязания
- Бесплатные узоры для вязания
Как набирать петли
The cast-on row is the foundation row of knitting. There are many ways to cast on stitches. One method may be faster or easier for you or may work better for certain techniques, such as buttonholes. Try each of the cast-on methods below, and start with the one that appeals to you most.
Note: The cast-on should be as elastic as the body of your knitting. If needed, the cast-on may be worked using a needle two or three sizes larger than your gauge needle. Knit the stitches onto the smaller needle as you knit the first row.
Making a Slipknot
The first stitch on your needle for most cast-on methods is a slipknot.
Step 1: Hold the yarn in your left hand about 8 inches from the end. With your right hand, make a circle with the yarn (fig. 1a). If it's helpful, hold the circle together between your index finger and thumb to prevent it from slipping away.
Making a Slipknot: Figure 1a |
Step 2: With the working yarn behind the circle, insert the knitting needle through the circle from front to back and catch the working yarn, pulling it through the circle and forming a loop (fig. 1b).
Making a Slipknot: Figure 1b |
Step 3: With the new loop on the needle in your right hand, gently pull both yarns (the tail and the working yarn attached to the ball) beneath the needle, then pull on the working yarn to tighten the new loop so that it fits snuggly around the needle (fig. 1c).
Making a Slipknot: Figure 1c |
Cable Cast-on
This cast-on is especially good when you need a firm edge. Work loosely, without pulling the stitches too tight.
Step 1: In your left hand, hold the needle with the slipknot and hold the working yarn in your right hand. Insert the right needle through the slipknot from front to back (fig. 2a).
Cable Cast-on: Figure 2a |
Step 2: Wrap the yarn around the right needle from back to front and pull up a loop, creating a new stitch on the right needle. Insert the left needle tip into the new stitch (fig. 2b), and slip it onto the left needle.
Cable Cast-on: Figure 2b |
Cable Cast-on: Figure 2c |
Step 3: With the right needle in position between the 2 stitches on the left needle, wrap the yarn around the right needle as shown (fig. 2c), and pull through a new loop.
Step 4: Using the tip of the left needle, slip the new stitch from the right needle as before (fig. 2d), and slip the right needle out of the stitch.
Cable Cast-on: Figure 2d |
Repeat steps 3 and 4 to cast on additional stitches. End with step 4 to complete the last cast-on stitch.
Long Tail (or Slingshot) Cast-on
The benefits of this cast-on method are that it's quick to do and makes an elastic edge. Both working yarn and tail are used.
The tail length should be roughly three times the width of your desired cast-on, or about 1 inch (2.5cm) per stitch for worsted weight yarn, plus several inches extra for the yarn tail allowance to weave in later. If you underestimate the length of yarn tail needed, pull out the work, add more yarn to the length, and begin again. Or, begin the cast-on using two balls of the same yarn: One serves as the "tail," and the other is the working yarn. Tie the ends together in an overhand knot, leaving about a 6-inch (15cm) tail, and then make the slipknot as usual and begin the cast-on. When the cast-on is completed, cut one of the yarns, leaving about 6 inches (15cm), and begin to work with the other. When the garment is finished, untie the overhand knot and weave in the loose ends.
Step 1: Place the slipknot onto the needle held in your right hand, with the yarn tail in front (closest to you) and the working yarn (attached to the ball) behind the needle. Pull the working yarn taut over the left forefinger, and wrap the yarn tail around your thumb from front to back. Secure both the working yarn and the tail between the remaining 3 fingers of your left hand and the palm. Place the forefinger of your right hand on top of the slipknot to hold it in place (fig. 3a).
Long Tail (or Slingshot) Cast-on: Figure 3a |
Step 2: Insert the needle under the yarn in front of your thumb, working from front to back and pulling the yarn slightly upward (fig. 3b). Insert the needle over the yarn on your forefinger, moving from top to bottom so the working yarn lies on top of the needle to form the new stitch (fig. 3b).
Long Tail (or Slingshot) Cast-on: Figure 3b |
Step 3: Pull the needle toward you through the loop on your thumb as you remove your thumb from the loop (fig. 3c). At the same time, pull down on both pieces of yarn, tightening the stitch by pulling on the tail, keeping the stitch firm and even but still loose enough to slide easily.
Long Tail (Slingshot) Cast-on: Figure 3c |
Repeat steps to cast on additional stitches.
Simple Cast-on (Backward Loop Cast-on)
This cast-on is probably the easiest to learn, but it doesn't have a neat edge like other cast-ons. Use it when working a few cast-on stitches or on buttonholes. This cast-on tends to grow longer and become less manageable as you work the first row of knitting, and the cast-on stitches tighten, making it difficult to insert the needle.
Step 1: Place the slipknot on an empty needle with the yarn tail in back and the working yarn in front. Hold this needle with the slipknot in your right hand.
Step 2: With working yarn in your left hand, wrap the working yarn over your thumb from front to back, and grasp it with your remaining fingers to tension (fig. 4a).
Simple Cast-on (Backward Loop Cast-on): Figure 4a |
Step 3: Insert the needle under the yarn looped around your thumb, working from bottom to top (fig. 4b). Pull up on the needle a little as you slide the yarn off your thumb and onto the needle.
Simple Cast-on (Backward Loop Cast-on) : Figure 4b |
Step 4: Gently pull on the working yarn to tighten the new stitch on the needle (fig. 4c).
Simple Cast-on (Backward Loop Cast-on) : Figure 4c |
Knitted Cast-on
This cast-on is easy to work and is very similar to the cable cast-on. The difference between the cable cast-on and the knitted cast-on occurs after the first stitch is made.
Step 1: Place the slipknot on an empty needle and hold in your left hand, with the working yarn in your right hand. Insert the right needle through the slipknot from front to back (see fig. 2a above).
Step 2: Wrap the yarn around the right needle from back to front, and pull up a loop, creating a new stitch on the right needle. Insert the left needle tip into the new stitch (see fig. 2b above). Both needles remain in the new stitch.
Repeat step 2 for each new stitch until all cast-on stitches are made. Withdraw the right needle after the last stitch is made. Although both needles remain in the new loop at all times, the stitches collect on the left needle only.
We'll dive into learning one of the two basic knitting stitches -- the knit stitch -- on the next page.
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Before you venture any further, look at the six illustrations below. They will help you understand many things about knitting, so study them well and plan to return to this page often. When a cast-on or stitch pattern specifies working into the front loop or back loop, simply match the instruction to the illustration to see exactly which part of the stitch is being described.
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Not what you’re looking for? Try these helpful articles:
- Knitting Instructions
- Free Baby Knitting Patterns
- Free Clothing Knitting Patterns
- Free Knitting Patterns for the Home
- Free Accessory Knitting Patterns
- Free and Easy Knitting Patterns
- Free Knitting Patterns
Learning the Knit Stitch
Knitting has two basic stitches: the knit stitch and the purl stitch. After mastering these stitches, you'll be able to create many stitch patterns.
Holding the Yarn
Experiment with the way you hold the yarn. Weave the yarn through your fingers as shown below, or try other ways until you find a method that works for you and feels comfortable. The ability to tension the yarn as it flows through your fingers while knitting allows you to maintain your gauge and work neat, even stitches. It's also less tiring on the hands.
Holding the yarn, using the American-English method |
Knit Stitch (k)
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Knitting is enjoyed and practiced all over the world, but not everyone knits in the same style. There is no right or wrong style of knitting. This article presents two of the more common knitting methods used in
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The knit stitch is the most common and versatile stitch of all. It is smooth on one side and bumpy on the other. The smooth side is generally used as the right side of the work -- the side that faces out. The working yarn is always held behind the needle when making the knit stitch. In other words, the knit fabric and the needle will always be between you and the working yarn. When working flat, back and forth knitting, knitting every row creates garter stitch.
Knit Stitch, American-English Method
Step 1: Hold the needle with the cast-on stitches in your left hand. The working yarn is already attached to the stitch closest to the needle tip. Hold the empty needle in your right hand; take hold of the working yarn with your right hand, and hold it behind the right needle. Insert the empty needle from front to back through the first stitch on the left needle (fig. 5a). The right needle is underneath the left needle.
Knit Stitch, American-English Method: Figure 5a |
Step 2: Bring your right hand and forefinger toward the tip of the right needle (the yarn is underneath the right needle). Wrap the yarn around the right needle from back to front (fig. 5b). Be careful not to wrap it around the left needle, too.
Knit Stitch, American-English Method: Figure 5b |
Step 3: Keeping the yarn firmly tensioned in your right hand, bring the right needle toward you, pulling a new loop through the old stitch (fig. 5c).
Knit Stitch, American-English Method: Figure 5c |
Step 4: With the new stitch on the right needle, slip the old stitch off the left needle (fig. 5d). Unlike the cast-on, the new knit stitches are held on the right needle.
Knit Stitch, American-English Method: Figure 5d |
You have just knit your first stitch, American-English style. Repeat until all the cast-on stitches have been knit and are on the needle held in the right hand. Jump ahead to Knitting the Next Row, or cast on another 20 stitches and try the knit stitch, Continental style.
Knit Stitch, Continental Method
As in the American-English method, the yarn is always held behind the work when making the knit stitch.
Holding the yarn, using the Continental method |
Step 1: Hold the working yarn and the needle with the cast-on stitches in your left hand and the empty needle in your right hand. Insert the empty needle into the first stitch on the left needle, from front to back (fig. 6a). The right needle is under the left needle.
Knit Stitch, Continental Method: Figure 6a |
Step 2: Holding the yarn in your left hand, over the left forefinger and behind both needles, bring the yarn over the right needle from left to right as shown (fig. 6b). Be careful not to wrap it around the left needle.
Knit Stitch, Continental Method: Figure 6b |
Step 3: Keeping the yarn firmly in your hand, pull the right needle and the yarn loop toward you, through the cast-on stitch (fig. 6c).
Knit Stitch, Continental Method: Figure 6c |
Step 4: With the new stitch on the right needle, slip the old stitch off the left needle (fig. 6d). Unlike the cast-on stitches, the new knit stitches are held on the right needle.
Knit Stitch, Continental Method: Figure 6d |
You have just knit your first stitch, Continental style. Repeat until all the cast-on stitches have been knit.
Knitting the Next Row, Either Style
The second and all subsequent knit rows are worked the same as the first: Knit each stitch on the needle in the left hand.
Step 1: When you have knit all the stitches from the left needle, turn the work, switching the needle with all the stitches on it from your right hand to your left.
Step 2: The working yarn is attached to the stitch closest to the needle tip. Insert the right needle into the first stitch and repeat the knitting steps across the first row, working into each of the stitches of the previous row instead of into the cast-on stitches.
Note:When beginning each new row, make sure the working yarn is beneath the needle holding the stitches and is not wrapped over the needle. If the working yarn is pulled upward, the first stitch will appear as two stitches, with both stitch loops appearing in front of the needle. If you knit both loops as single stitches, you'll increase the number of stitches on your needle. Remember, the front loop of each stitch should be in front of the needle and the back loop behind the needle (see Knit Loops and Purl Loops).
As soon as you feel comfortable making the knit stitch, you can try the easier projects in our Free Knitting Patterns collection. To finish these projects, you'll also need to practice binding off. For most projects, you'll also need to know the purl stitch, which you can learn about on the next page.
Not what you’re looking for? Try these helpful articles:
- Knitting Instructions
- Free Baby Knitting Patterns
- Free Clothing Knitting Patterns
- Free Knitting Patterns for the Home
- Free Accessory Knitting Patterns
- Free and Easy Knitting Patterns
- Free Knitting Patterns
Learning the Purl Stitch
The purl stitch (p) is the reverse of the knit stitch. The yarn is always held in front of the work when making the purl stitch. As you work this stitch, the bumpy side faces you and the side behind the needle is now the smooth side.
When working flat, back and forth knitting, purling every row creates garter stitch, just the same as knitting every row. Alternating rows of knit and purl makes stockinette stitch, in which the knit side is the right side and the purl side is the wrong side. The purl side of stockinette stitch is called reverse stockinette stitch, which uses the purl side as the right side and the knit side as the wrong side.
Purl Stitch, American-English Method
Step 1: Hold the working yarn and the empty needle in your right hand and the needle with the cast-on stitches in your left hand. With the working yarn held in front of your work, insert the empty needle from right to left through the front loop of the first stitch (fig. 7a). The right needle is in front of the left needle.
Purl Stitch, American-English Method: Figure 7a |
Step 2: Bring the yarn in your right hand toward the tip of the right needle. Carry the yarn between the needles, and wrap it around the right needle from front to back, ending in front (fig. 7b). Be careful not to wrap it around the left needle.
Purl Stitch, American-English Method: Figure 7b |
Step 3: Keeping the working yarn firmly in your right hand, use the right needle to pull up a loop, moving backward and away from you through the stitch on the left needle (fig. 7c). With the new stitch on the right needle, slip the old stitch off the left needle.
Purl Stitch, American-English Method: Figure 7c |
Repeat for each new stitch.
Purl Stitch, Continental Method
Step 1: Hold the working yarn and the cast-on stitches in your left hand and the empty needle in your right hand. With the yarn held in front of your work, insert the empty needle from right to left through the front loop of the first stitch on the left needle (fig. 8a). The right needle is in front of the left needle.
Purl Stitch, Continental Method: Figure 8a |
Step 2: Wrap the yarn around the right needle from front to back, ending in the front (fig. 8b).
|
Purl Stitch, Continental Method: Figure 8b |
Step 3: Keeping the yarn firmly in your left hand, use the right needle to pull a loop through the old stitch on the left needle, moving backward and away from you (fig. 8c). With the new stitch on the right needle, slip the old stitch off the left needle.
Purl Stitch, Continental Method: Figure 8c |
Repeat for each new stitch.
Purling the Next Row
The second and subsequent purl rows are worked the same as the first. Purl each stitch on the needle in the left hand.
Step 1: When you have purled all the stitches from the left needle, turn the work, switching the needle with all the stitches from right hand to left.
Step 2: The working yarn is attached to the stitch closest to the needle tip and held in front of the work. Insert the right needle into the first stitch with the yarn held in front of the stitches, and repeat the steps of the first row, working into each of the stitches in the previous row instead of the cast-on stitches.
Now that you've mastered knitting and purling, it's time to learn how to bind off stitches. Find tips on the next page.
Not what you’re looking for? Try these helpful articles:
- Knitting Instructions
- Free Baby Knitting Patterns
- Free Clothing Knitting Patterns
- Free Knitting Patterns for the Home
- Free Accessory Knitting Patterns
- Free and Easy Knitting Patterns
- Free Knitting Patterns
How to Bind Off Stitches
The binding off (BO) technique finishes the last row and secures the stitches so the needles can be removed. You will often see the phrase "bind off in pattern." This means work the last row of stitches as instructed, and bind off as you work. It sounds tricky, but it's not. The illustrations here show a knit row for the bind-off, but you'll want to practice the technique on both knit and purl rows.
Step 1: Hold the needle with stitches in your left hand and the empty needle in your right hand. Hold the yarn in position for the knit stitch, behind your work.
Step 2: Knit the first 2 stitches.
Step 3: Insert the left needle from left to right into the front loop of the first stitch on the right needle (fig. 9a). Note: This is the stitch farther from the right needle tip.
Binding Off: Figure 9a |
Step 4: Use the left needle to pull this stitch over the second stitch and drop it off the right needle. One stitch bound off; the second stitch remains on the right needle (fig. 9b).
Binding Off: Figure 9b |
Step 5: Knit the next stitch.
Step 6: Repeat steps 3-5 until you have bound off all stitches from the left needle and 1 stitch remains on the right needle. Cut the yarn about 4 inches from the stitch, and pull the yarn tail through the last stitch (fig. 9c). Remove the needle and pull the yarn tail to tighten.
Binding Off: Figure 9c |
Many new knitters bind off too tightly. The bound-off edge should be as elastic as the rest of the knitting. If necessary, use a larger needle size to work the stitches in your bind-off row.
In the next section, you'll find information on some of the most common knitting stitch patterns.
Not what you’re looking for? Try these helpful articles:
- Knitting Instructions
- Free Baby Knitting Patterns
- Free Clothing Knitting Patterns
- Free Knitting Patterns for the Home
- Free Accessory Knitting Patterns
- Free and Easy Knitting Patterns
- Free Knitting Patterns
Knitting Stitch Patterns
There are many ways to combine stitches to create different patterns, but the basis of every pattern is the knit stitch and the purl stitch.
Garter Stitch (g st)
Knit every row in flat knitting, and you have garter stitch (fig. 10). It's a great stitch pattern for new knitters because it uses only one simple stitch. Because garter stitch lays flat without curling, it's often used at the beginning and ends of rows to create flat, non-curling edges. Note: If you knit in the round, on circular or double-pointed needles, you'll create stockinette stitch instead of garter stitch.
Garter Stitch: Figure 10 |
Stockinette Stitch (St st)
This is the most commonly used stitch pattern. Simply knit one row, purl the next, and repeat to produce this pattern. Stockinette stitch will curl at the edges when not stabilized with other, non-curling, stitch patterns, such as garter stitch. Because of that, border stitch patterns are usually added to the lower and upper edges, and the side edges are sewn into the seam. To obtain an accurate measurement, you can block it to keep it flat temporarily.
Stockinette Stitch (Knit Side): Figure 11a |
The knit side (the smooth side) is called stockinette stitch (fig. 11a), and the purl side (or bumpy side) is called reverse stockinette stitch (fig. 11b). Reverse stockinette stitch is often used as a background for cable patterns.
Reverse Stockinette Stitch (Purl Side): Figure 11b |
Ribbing (rib)
You'll recognize ribbing as the stitch found at the cuffs and hems of sweaters. It is a very elastic pattern and knits up narrower than stockinette stitch on the same size needles. There are many ways of making ribbing, but the most common are the single rib (fig. 12a) and the double rib (fig. 12b).
Single Rib: Figure 12a |
The single rib is made by alternating one knit stitch with one purl stitch (abbreviated as k1,p1). The double rib is more elastic than the single rib and is made by alternating two knit stitches with two purl stitches (abbreviated k2,p2).
Double Rib: Figure 12b |
Ribbing is very easy once you have learned to recognize knit and purl stitches. Instead of counting stitches, you simply knit the knits and purl the purls.
New knitters may have trouble understanding the instructions for knitting patterns at first. The tips on the next page will help.
Not what you’re looking for? Try these helpful articles:
- Knitting Instructions
- Free Baby Knitting Patterns
- Free Clothing Knitting Patterns
- Free Knitting Patterns for the Home
- Free Accessory Knitting Patterns
- Free and Easy Knitting Patterns
- Free Knitting Patterns
Understanding Knitting Instructions
Like most crafts, knitting has its own language. Knitting patterns use abbreviations, special terms, and punctuation. Knitting language may seem strange and a little intimidating at first, but you will quickly master it and be reading patterns like a pro.
At the beginning of a knitting pattern, you'll usually find a list of techniques used in that project. Review the techniques listed, and when you see one you don't know, practice the technique before starting the pattern.
Return to the pattern you plan to make, and read any special notes or instructions. Locate the size you want to make, and circle it throughout the pattern. Or make a copy of the pattern, and highlight the correct size numbers. In most patterns, the size numbers list the smallest size first, with the other sizes listed within brackets, beginning with the next size up, and so on. When one number or set of instructions is given, it applies to all sizes.
When a Finished Size is listed, the numbers given refer to the garment size upon completion (provided you maintain the correct gauge). These measurements include garment ease. Some patterns include both the body size and a finished size. For example:
Bust size: 36" [38", 40"]
Finished size: 40" [42", 44"]
Pay attention to punctuation. One sentence usually represents one row; commas and semicolons may mean that something's going to change with the next stitch or row. Instructions inside asterisks, brackets, or parentheses are usually repeated, so look for the directions that explain what to do.
Schematics
These are line drawings of the basic garment pieces, to which measurements are added. Usually schematics show the basic measurements before neck ribbing, collars, or other embellishments are added. Check the schematic to determine which size will best fit you in width and length.
В последнем разделе мы перечислим некоторые из наиболее распространенных сокращений вязания и их значения.
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Вязание Аббревиатуры
Используйте этот ключ в качестве справочника для новых и незнакомых сокращений, встречающихся в схемах вязания.
| [ ] |
Рабочие инструкции в скобках столько раз, сколько указано |
| ( ) | Рабочие инструкции в скобках в месте, указанном |
| * | Повторите инструкции после звездочки, как указано |
| * к ** | Повторите инструкции между * и **, как указано |
| альтернативный | чередовать |
| приблизительно | приблизительный |
| просить | начало / начало |
| держать пари | между |
| БО | отвязать |
| СО | бросить |
| продолжение | Продолжать |
| декабрь | уменьшаться / уменьшаться / уменьшаться |
| дпн | чулочные иглы |
| следовать | следовать / следует / следует |
| г ст | платочная вязка |
| вкл. | увеличить / увеличить / увеличить |
| к или к | вязать |
| к1,р1 | 1 лицевая, 1 изнаночная |
| k2tog | провязать 2 вместе |
| умный | вязаный |
| левый |
левая рука |
| м1 |
сделать 1 стежок |
| м1 п-ст | сделать 1 изнаночную петлю |
| п или п | изнаночный |
| p2tog | изнаночные 2 петли вместе |
| вечера | поместить маркер |
| предыдущий | предыдущий |
| пссо | пропустить снятый стежок |
| мудрый | изнаночная |
| бэр | Остаться / Остаться |
| представитель | повтор(ы) |
| рев ул ул | обратная лицевая гладь |
| Правая сторона |
правая рука |
| круг(и) | раунд(ы) |
| РС | правая сторона |
| ск | пропускать |
| СКП | снять, вязать, пропустить снятую петлю над - 1 петля убавлена |
| sk2p | 1 снять, 2 вместе лицевые, пропустить снятую петлю через 2 вместе лицевой -- убавилось 2 петли |
| сл | соскальзывать |
| sl1k | снять 1 лиц. |
| sl1p | снять 1 изн. |
| ул ул | скользящая петля |
| сс к |
снять, снять, провязать эти 2 петли вместе - убавка |
| ссск | снять, снять, снять, лицевыми эти 3 петли вместе - убавка на 2 петли |
| ст (ы) | стежок (и) |
| ул ул | лицевая гладь |
| стол | через заднюю петлю |
| тог | вместе |
| WS | не та сторона |
| wyib | с пряжей сзади |
| wyif | с накидом впереди |
| yfwd | пряжа вперед |
| Эй | пряжа над |
| там | пряжа над иглой |
Вы теперь вязальщица! Практикуйте основные стежки, которые вы выучили, пока не почувствуете себя комфортно, и не забывайте обращаться к инструкциям, если вы запутались. Прежде чем вы это узнаете, вы будете вязать, не задумываясь о том, что делают ваши руки.
Не то, что вы ищете? Попробуйте эти полезные статьи:
- Инструкции по вязанию
- Бесплатные узоры для вязания спицами
- Бесплатные узоры для вязания одежды
- Бесплатные узоры для вязания дома
- Бесплатные схемы вязания аксессуаров
- Бесплатные и легкие узоры для вязания
- Бесплатные узоры для вязания
